Burberry’s 50 British bourgeois shadows

In a huge former Royal Mail warehouse south of the Thames, luxury development is to look forward to the influx of foreign funds that have never been realized, and after a long teasing – a new, popular Peter Saville logo; A limited-edition T-shirt worth $390; Beyoncé recently wore a custom-made outfit at a concert in Houston – Burberry’s chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci finally launched his first collection. There is no celebrity in the audience.

However, the earth is still moving.

In fact, this is not true (although the writing is very interesting). This is the ceiling, and the metal slats pull back to let the sun enter. Fashion has never been afraid to embrace a somewhat obvious metaphor.

This is a show with three performances (five, if you count the men’s and women’s departments), the official title is “Kingdom”, although it is easy to be “Burberry As You Like It.” From the first act: Britain The 50 shades of the bourgeoisie, starring in the trench.

The Trenches are fitted with a large bodice elasticated waist and redesigned as an A-line skirt. They wore signature lattice linings and they came to hang the pearls. They bring ribbon scarves, such as ribbons, and blend with logo prints and swaying pleated skirts.

They come from men, with neat structural cuts and narrow trousers, pinstripe suits and contrast-colored piping, and hatched slings instead of the sword behind them. The fabric is very lush and the accessories (belts! bags!) are rich.

Prior to this, Mr. Tisci was known for his previous incarnation, because the Gothic feeling was full of junk kicks, and Kardashian-Jenner’s social life, he proved that he can use the best of them to do Sloane Square dress. .

Therefore, the curtain is allowed to appear in the second scene: the youth part of the collection.

That is, Shakespeare’s mashup (citing, like the armband on the sleeve, like the Barbara Kruger on the shirt), the sex pistol (photo montage stuck in the chest pocket, like the logo of the mechanic; Who killed Bambi “through a men’s leopard coat”, cowhide print (because it might be rustic?), sweat shorts (suitable for him) and shorter culottes (suitable for her).

Not to mention a new invention: a thigh hug. Imagine a strap attached to the bottom of a men’s T-shirt, then hanging around the thigh, or cutting it into two turns from the hem of the mini skirt. The purpose is not clear. Bondage, maybe.

So until the third act: evening. Go back to polishing. Long black dress with vest or draped gold-plated tassels, waltz made from huge crystal chandeliers.

Mr. Tisci, the background behind the show, said that he wanted to prove that Burberry was not just an “identity” but could make many points; he could wear a mother and daughter, father and son. In order to do this, he hopes to be free to celebrate all the aspects he has experienced while thinking about England (he lived there for eight years, starting at the age of 17, he went to the fashion school and found his call).

He did that. What he didn’t do: pay tribute to the eccentric British or Bloomsbury, a former pet theme that is now often clichéd. This is a relief.

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